Are you coming to Buenos Aires on holiday?

If so read this and know the basic practicalities. I include the things people most often ask me about.

To and from the airport

The standard options:

When arriving to Buenos Aires Ezeiza Airport you can prepay at one of the taxi booths AFTER you have exited customs and the glass screen outside the customs doors. Taxi Ezeiza is reliable and charges roughly the same fixed rate to the centre as the booths outside the terminal. You can pay in U$D or pesos. Prices from Buenos Aires to Ezeiza are lower and you can also check approximate current price on the same webpage. If you catch a taxi in the street, choose a radio taxi (see below) and agree price before getting in. You will also have to pay the autopista tolls of a few pesos. Manuel Tienda Leon operate a bus service from Ezeiza, though I have never used it and so don’t know where they would drop you off. They have a counter in the Arrivals Hall. If you are alone it might be cheaper than a taxi, but if there’s more than one of you… not sure.

The treat yourself to a fabulous start to your trip option:

He’s American so speaks English. He’s got a fabulously large and luxurious Lincoln Town Car. He’s Fred from www.silverstarcar.com and I recommend him. Why?

For my 2009 trip to the UK, admittedly on a bit of a whim when I discovered him on Twitter, I decided to try Fred and see whether spending a little bit extra at the start and end of my travels really could buy me a calmer state of mind. It did.

Fred may be more expensive than a taxi, but I reckon he’s worth it, especially for first time tourists and especially if there is a group of you with lots of luggage.  You won’t have to worry about relying on your Spanglish after a 15 hour flight, being ripped off, or getting a taxi driver who doesn’t know where he’s going (Fred has the knowledge and a GPS)… and at the same time you can sit back in comfy leather and feel cocooned in one of the most elegant cars on the Buenos Aires roads. Fred will even exchange a note for $10pesos of monedas on your arrival in Buenos Aires – what other taxi service will do that invaluable (see here for why it matters) deed? If you want your holiday to get off to the smoothest possible start, then I say, splash out and try Fred for yourself.

Money

Banco Piano will change Travellers Cheques and charge 2%. Or bring cash U$D and change them for pesos in Banco Piano who give a fair exchange rate. Withdraw cash pesos from ATMs with your bank card and choose a bank back home that doesn’t charge for foreign withdrawals: there will be transaction and daily limits but these vary according to both your own bank and the bank here. You can change money in the airport when you arrive at Banco Piano inside Sector (Terminal) A: rate slightly worse than in downtown branches, but it’s convenient and reliable. Always, for changing Travellers Cheques and cash U$D you will need your passport. Some stores and restaurants accept credit cards, but not all. You have to show ID, like a passport or driving licence (sometimes only the original will suffice) and write the number on the credit card receipt under your signature.

A word on ATMs. In BsAs they are inside, not holes in the wall (in the street) like we have in the UK. Swipe your card in the reader to open the door, but if there is only one machine inside, Argentines will tend to queue in the street to give each other privacy and for safety. Pocket all money you withdraw before leaving, and don’t forget your card as most machines are of the type that ask you if you want another transaction at the end, and only eject the card when you hit no.

Supermarkets (Supermercados)

Dia, Disco, Coto, Leader, Carrefour, Jumbo are the major ones and stock wide range of foods. You can get most things here. If you have favourite international brands of anything bring it with you. If you are prepared to make do, or pay a bit more for international brands here then leave it at home. There are MiniMarkets everywhere, and Kioskos which sell snacks and drinks. Bakeries, green grocers and butchers all are great quality. If you want spices and other ingredients suited to oriental cooking, head for Barrio Chino in Belgrano around Arribeños street near the station Barrancas de Belgrano.

Pharmacies (Farmacias)

Are everywhere and the major chain is Farmacity. Same as above about international brands.

Taxis (Taxis)

If you are concerned about safety, take radio taxis (writing on all four doors and often a Radio Taxi light on the roof). Available taxis show a red LIBRE light in the front window. Give the address by street intersection (two street names) rather than a single street name and a number. Say the street of the actual address first. For example for La Viruta (Club Armenia), say Armenia y Cabrera because Club Armenia is located on Armenia. Make sure the driver puts the meter (el reloj) on. You don’t need to tip in taxis. Use small notes as close as possible to the final total: don’t attempt to pay with a $100peso note, as an occasional scam is for the note to be swapped for a forgery which is then refused and handed back to you – the driver gets the real note, you get the forgery and you have to cough up more money for the fare. Coins are in short supply here, so either you or the driver may round things to the nearest peso to help each other out. Starting price on the meter, $4.60 pesos. The more knowledgeable you can appear to be about the route you need to take the better to avoid the taxi driver taking you on deliberate detours to earn a few extra pesos: get in a taxi that’s going in the direction you wish to travel; ask for the destination by an intersection of streets not by a street and a number; if your Castellano and street knowledge is up to it, suggest the route you know to be the shortest.

Subway (Subte)

Easy and safe to use. Price $1.10 pesos per journey including changes of line, for any distance. Buy tickets at the Boleteria in the Subte station and to save queuing, buy tickets with 10 journeys on them, say ‘Diez’. Alternatively ask for a Monedero card, also available from the Boleteria or anywhere where you see the Monedero sign, and charge it up as you need by handing over say, $10 or $20pesos at a time: wave the card at the person in the ticket office, hand over your money and hold the card up to the marked place on the outside of the window; watch the amount get credited before your eyes before you leave to be sure. The subway stops running fairly early, about 10.30 – 11pm.

For full information on the Subte in Buenos Aires check out the Subte section of this brilliant Buenos Aires public transport website.

Buses (Colectivos)

A fantastic service if you can work out which routes you need. Do it with the pocket-sized Guia “T” de Bolsillo, available from vendors on the Subway, newstands, and street vendors. Bus stops are marked by bus shelters, poles, numbers on walls. Remember that because most streets are one way, the buses have one route there, and a slightly different route back. You pay at the ticket machine on the bus, with coins (monedas); the machine does give change. Tell the driver the value of the ticket you want: for first timers who don’t speak Spanish it’s probably easiest to say ‘Uno veinte cinco’ which will take you anywhere in the city centre for $1.25pesos. Keep your ticket (I’ve met ticket inspectors twice in two years). Press the buzzer located on the metal poles near the exit doors before your stop to get off. The bus may not stop if no-one presses the buzzer. How do you know when to get off? In unknown places I discreetly keep an eye on my map (hidden in the cavern of my bag) and notice which cross streets are sailing past. I love the buses: great city views, routes for every adventure, and most run all night.

We’ll be getting a card system for the buses soon (we hope). It’s being piloted on a few routes though you can still pay with monedas too, even on those buses. Look out for it.

For full information on every bus route in Buenos Aires check out the colectivo section of this brilliant Buenos Aires public transport website.

Cellphone/Mobile (Cel)

If your phone is Tri Band and unblocked you can buy an Argentine SIM from Personal, Claro or Movistar agents (they are everywhere) cheaply and then buy credit from Kioskos, Locutorios or Supermercados in the form of a card with a scratch off and reveal code and instructions on the card for crediting the phone, in Spanish but self explanatory: check that the card has not been tampered with and that the scratch off area is intact before leaving the vendor. Or you can buy a cheap phone and do the same. Calling is expensive, SMS messaging is cheap. Note that if you are a returning tourist and you bought a SIM card on your last trip, you might have to buy a new one this time round because the SIM expires (so to speak) after a set period of non-use.

Internet

Locutorios are everywhere and internet readily available and is cheap in these. Or bring you laptop and connect via WIFI in many restaurants, cafes, hotels, hostels, apartments or via cable if your apartment doesn’t have WIFI. Bring one adaptor for your country’s plug to be sure, but multi-function ones are available here.

Tipping in cafés and restaurants

No more than 10% is necessary.

What’s cheap? What’s expensive?

Good value items are: food especially steak, leather goods, public transport, wine, cheap clothing, handbags, shoes, boots. Relatively expensive items are electronic goods, and international brands. Private tango lessons are perhaps more expensive than you think they will be and prices depend on the name and degree of fame.

Tax Free Shopping

Look for the Global Refund Tax Free Shopping signs in shops and if your purchases qualify (products must be made in Argentina, and there’s a minimum total spend in each store) ask for a ‘Cheque Global Refund’. You will need to fill in a form and show your passport. But when you leave Argentina you will be able to claim back the tax (21% less an admin fee). You can do that at the airport. For all the information on Argentina Tax Free shopping check out:

The Global Refund website for Tax Free Shopping

Airport tax on departure

Was U$D18 payable after checkin (cash or card), at one of the payment booths in the terminal building. Now, if you bought your ticket after a certain date in 2009, it’ll be included in the ticket price. Don’t pay it unless the airline tells you to do so!

And what’s the weather like?

In winter it’s coldish and can even hover around zero, so bring warm clothes and maybe even a hot water bottle in June, July, August and September. Spring officially starts on 21st September. If you are renting an apartment in these months check that there is working heating – it’s unlikely to be central heating, but if you’re lucky you might get a wall heater in the sitting room. In summer it’s hot (can hover around forty) and humid so ask about air conditioning or a fan, especially if you’ll be here in December or January.

Oh and don’t forget

to check out my page of Top Tips on BsAs Books and Maps and my page of Top Tips for Learning the Lingo. There you will find further details of my favourite maps, magazines, e-books, books and Castellano language courses that could gift you those extra little bits of inside information and knowledge you are looking for.

You can also see 26 Places I Love in Buenos Aires, to get you started exploring the city, by clicking the pic below:

26 Places I Love in Buenos Aires

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And finally, here are a few of my past articles about a few of my favourite things in and around Buenos Aires:

On why I loved the Buenos Aires Open Top Bus Tour

On why you should not miss the beautiful Calle Lanìn

On why you have to experience the views of BsAs from the stunning Palacio Barolo

On my favourite Buenos Aires Tango Dinner/Show La Ventana

On why you should visit the Virgin of Luján – a day trip out of Buenos Aires, or even an overnight getaway

So for now, that’s it. If you notice something that’s out of date, do tell me. And of course read the comments below in case there are any hidden gems contributed by others. Enjoy Buenos Aires!

Sallycat