tango in England

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IMGP4414Day one in England and Me and C. stand on the pavement outside the post office on the Shepherd’s Bush Road, snapping away with the Pentax: a red double-decker bus; magenta Busy Lizzies spilling over baskets hanging from a wrought iron lamp post; a pristine example of a British public toilet capsule that looks like it could be an alien space craft in disguise. Do people really use those? asks a bemused C.  I make him laugh by telling him that the doors open automatically if you stay in there for too long.

I drag him into the first charity shop we come across. Can’t resist the prospect of unearthing a few recycled Brit bargains in the racks packed with familiar labels and someone else’s cast offs.  A couple of Jasper Conran shirts for him and a Monsoon top for me: ten quid. Resulting smiles: priceless.

Flushed with the pleasure of new gladrags in the bag, we decide to explore the aisles of the chemist known as Superdrug. I want to know how much the things I call ‘facewipes’ cost: you know, those totally convenient wet cloths that cleanse tone and something else all in one… I’ve always been mega lazy when it comes to skincare and thus a big fan, but in Buenos Aires if it says Nivea or any name I recognise on the cover, it’s out of my price bracket: In Argentina I resort to the Farmacity own brand and they’re between $9pesos and $12pesos (one pound fifty to two quid) for twenty five. Superdrug’s version looks a lot more luxurious and is only 99p for forty. I buy three packs. We’ve got to make a list of all the things we’re taking back with us, I say. L’Oreal hair dye won’t be on it. Six pounds fifty in Superdrug. Three quid in Buenos Aires.

Round the back of Shepherd’s Bush’s second hand stores and  chemists we find Westfield, apparently the biggest shopping mall in Europe. We wander in… and out in about five seconds flat. C. is open mouthed to see people propping up the champagne bar in the designer section at 4pm… Everyone’s drinking, he says. We’ve just passed Walkabout, the Australian branded bar, overflowing with Saturday afternoon ‘beer glass in hand’ punters. I meanwhile am open mouthed at the number of people weighed down by an excessive number of designer carrier bags – haven’t they heard that Britain is supposed to be in the grip of a recession?

Tango Negracha-style shows no signs of being knocked by economics either, despite costing ten quid to get in (that’s more than $60pesos each… bloody hell!): it’s chocca. Carlos announces to me that he could be in La Viruta. The performance is by folk who normally hang out there… though I think he probably means the number of times he gets kicked. To my amazement I end up dancing with Shev down in the basement where there’s more space and the music’s electronic: he leads me a load of fun stuff I don’t normally do and I end up laughing a lot. I can’t help wondering what my milonguero boys would make of it all, and as the night progresses I do think of them and their closer than close embraces. I miss the familiar music too: even much of the traditional stuff upstairs isn’t really what I’m used to. But these days I’m celebrating the differences… or doing my best to anyway, so I throw myself into our first night on the London tango town. I confess that I don’t really want to leave at 3.30am when I turn to discover that my host has his tango shoes off and his coat on. That’s the adrenalin of travel across cultures for you, even a fifteen hour flight and zero sleep for two days couldn’t stop me wanting to dance and talk and meet new people and dance some more, until dawn. I silently give thanks that in Buenos Aires I can always get the bus home, or if desperate a pretty cheap taxi, and never need a car or to rely on anyone for a lift. Freedom. I must have it to feel joy and I know it. And it is fabulous to know it, and to normally have it.

I’m starving after all that dancing and I shout, Stop! as into view comes a petrol station bearing a M&S Simply Food sign that promises a treasure chest of goodies totally and utterly unheard of in Buenos Aires. I leave the boys in the car and it is touch and go whether they will ever see me again as I get lost in the shelves of convenience bacon and egg triple-decker sandwiches on brown rye bread, 4-packs of chocolate eclairs (that I have been known to eat in one sitting in lives past), 500ml tubs of fresh full fat custard… Half an hour later I’m at the kitchen table tucking into two enormous scones that ooze with strawberry jam and cream and I’m thinking that I absolutely will not care if I never see another plate of Argentine medialunas again. I start fantasising about how I can persuade M&S to open a store in Las Cañitas. As I eat jam and cream I feel like I am in the enviable position of standing in front of a giant pick and mix stand. An M&S scone from a Shepherds Bush petrol station at 4am; the sight of my Argentine in a five quid Jasper Conran shirt from Oxfam; the fun embrace of a British friend in the basement of a packed Holborn tango club… all London treats. Things to love.

Now, one week after Negracha and with a few days in the exquisitely beautiful and green Hampshire countryside behind me, I know a few things that I don’t love about me in this country too: having to drive miles just to find a pint of milk; not leaving myself enough time in my schedule to write; being invited to dance tango to music that isn’t even remotely recognisable as tango music. But, Brilliant! I shout in my most welcoming voice to all three. The first I can put up with for a few weeks; the second I can change from today; the third… I’m just saying politely, No, sorry, I can’t dance tango to this. Easy. It’s just bloody great to know who I am, what works, what doesn’t work, what I want and what I don’t want, and not being afraid to say so.

When you travel you take yourself with you right? I used to say that in a rather negative way. Like, Oh well be careful thinking that you can go and live in another country and everything will be different, because it won’t – you take yourself with you after all… What does that mean exactly? That we’re all screwed up and so we’ll screw up our lives wherever we go? But what if we are not screwed up. What if we know joy in one land and we are determined to carry that joy with us to another. Might that not be possible too? Well it damn well is.

I do see that I have to watch out for getting sucked in to ways that may be the norm here, but are no longer my norm (like not wanting to offend anyone, not saying no even when I long to, not making time for art over duty)… but that’s ok. I am learning to protect my joy. And I will do so whatever land I’m in. Is it selfish? Maybe. But on the other hand if, when I face you, I have not got joy in my heart, then I’m wasting your time as well as mine: across the coffee table; on the dance floor; on this blog page. Until this morning I haven’t wanted to write a word since I left Argentina. Today I woke at 5am and the words were desperate to escape. So here I am. Saturday morning. Rain pouring outside. Hampshire, England. Pick and mixing my life: Carlos asleep in the next room; a great and wonderful friend down the corridor; an unplanned day stretching ahead; dancing tango tonight in the New Forest. Mañana another favourite New Forest tango home of mine: Bramshaw. Monday, my family.

You take yourself with you when you travel? Yes you do. And for the very first time in my life, I’m taking a me I love, a me who at last is learning to fill her suitcases not only with tango shoes but with un-squashable Barbie fuelled honesty and joy. And how bloody marvellous is that?

Happy rest of the weekend guys. Till soon, from the most beautiful England that it is in my power to create,

Sallycat

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IMGP9601 Back in January I wrote about the clashing of two tango cultures: his (Argentine) and mine (English):

When tango cultures cross

It is quite something for me to look back on that post and to sense the emotion, the frustration, the confusion that I felt at the time. Now Carlos has travelled to England and he has seen first hand my tango roots. But, has anything changed?

Well, how did ‘mi gran amor’ find the tango experience in England?

I think on the whole he loved it. I have lots of girlfriends in English tango, and other English women read this blog. Quite honestly Carlos was delighted to find that he did not once have to ask an English woman, ‘Bailas?’ They asked him. But he also found that if he did ask, his invitation was always accepted. We are a friendly bunch in Inglaterra, and I guess we don’t get that many Argentinos passing through. And I always joke to Carlos, that because of this blog, he is probably the most famous plumber on the planet! He has been unerringly generous in allowing me to write about him, from the start, and I think that the English have grown to love him for it. He was not a stranger over there: people recognised his beautiful brown eyes with their a hint of ‘tristeza’, his gentle tango embrace, his generous heart, and he was welcomed. I was proud beyond imagining to see him take my friends in his arms, and offer them the piece of his soul that is his ‘tango argentino’, his love of the music (when he recognised the music of course!), his Argentina. I was happy to share him. And he talks fondly now of his ‘English girls’. ‘Have any of my friends written to you?’ he asks me almost daily. Girls, he remembers every one of your dances. He misses you. Get over here!

Carlos rarely talks to me about anyone he dances with. He is not one to describe his tango experiences. I have never heard him complain about lack of skill, compare dance partners, or say anything negative at all. Occasionally he may comment to me that someone is a bit tall for him, but that is as far as it goes. He is a gentleman when it comes to tango. Ah well, I guess he is just a gentleman, full stop. And so, I have had to drag out of him his general impressions of dancing tango in England and basically it boils down to the fact that the women are perhaps not as relaxed in his arms as he is used to, perhaps not quite as comfortable in a close embrace as he is used to, perhaps holding back slightly from allowing their souls to dance, without even realising it… I understand this because I felt it in the men too. I wanted to say to many men, ‘Please, just for me, forget the steps… hold me, feel the music, and give me your soul. Then I can give you mine.’

I know how it was for me back in my previous life. I wanted to dance great didn’t I? You all know how much I wanted to dance great. I went to hundreds of classes in England. I loved it when we learned new moves. After one week I was begging my teacher to show me ochos, before I could walk of course… because I wanted to look good, follow everything that was led, be the best at tango, fast. I harassed my ‘dream dancer of Hampshire’ to show me ‘boleos’, ‘ganchos’, ‘volcadas’. He kept telling me to practice walking. I was angry. I learned to dance in an ‘open embrace’ and felt very uncomfortable if someone I didn’t know pulled me in close. For a start I was worried that if I couldn’t sneak a look at the floor, I wouldn’t be able to follow well. Mmmmm…

Now, I am not one to write much about my tango partners, individually that is, unless they are called Carlos. I respect their privacy, as I hope they do mine. And I had some lovely partners in England, and some magical tangos. So what I am about to say now is a general impression, nothing more. It is how I felt upon returning to my tango birthplace. And I can say it because I understand it, or at least I understand how I fitted in to the same overall impression when I lived in England, and probably would if I still lived there now. I am no expert I know.  And so I can only share what I feel as of this minute. And that might change in the future. I have learned some hard lessons in tango since I arrived here. I have written about them. I expect there will be more to come. I am still a beginner in my tango journey. I am being taught by every single man, including the English man, who walks towards me on the dance floor, by every single person that I see dance, and by my own emerging soul, as ‘lentamente’ it learns to speak its truths. And now, for better or for worse, it wants to speak about this.

I don’t honestly know how I have come to discover the magic of the connection of souls in tango. It came gradually as I danced and as I watched dancers here in Buenos Aires. It came with a bit of time. It sneaked into my understanding, unobserved. I think it flowed in to the space that was created by my ‘tango ego’ ebbing away as I learned my tougher ‘tango lessons’. And I believe that being in Buenos Aires for me, was a huge factor in all of this.  Here I learned how to let go and forget myself in life, and on the dance floor. Today, my surrender to the music and my tango partner allows my soul to breathe his breath, my heart to beat with his, my body to feel and respond to the dance of his soul… When I returned to England, I definitely danced more flamboyant tango then I ever dance here, apart from with Ariel in private perhaps, and sometimes it was fun, a laugh, a challenge, BUT for the most part, it wasn’t the tango that I have now personally come to live for: what I think of as the tango of the soul.

In the beginning of this last trip to England, I did exactly what I do here. I would step up to a man, enter his embrace, gently reach out for his soul… and, initially I was shocked, to often find it blocked. If I am honest, the Milongas in England felt to me to be full of men’s souls dancing trapped in boxes. And the boxes felt to me to be made of  steps, of sequences, of moves, of anxiety to ‘perform’, and perhaps too on occasion, of the ‘great British reserve’. It is indeed true that sometimes the boxes were quite pretty and decorative with complicated patterns on the outsides, but the problem was that I wanted to rip the box open and get at the treasure inside.  I felt a sadness that often, the man wasn’t offering me the sensual dance of his soul, he was shoving at me everything that his body had learned to do, with no pauses, no silences, no feeling. He was giving me a part of him yes, but it felt like the hard shell of him, and I felt that this shell was born in his head. I wanted to break through his ‘brain barrier’, with an ice pick (if I’m really honest), and find his heart beat, his breath, his music, his suffering, his joy. I would close my eyes in those first moments of the embrace, and my soul would lean towards him, hoping, longing, but then… a jerk, a sudden unwelcome and sharp opening of the embrace, a shove off axis, a move learned in class maybe that same night and sometimes poorly led, a compensation by my body (now totally alert and on guard), an equal and opposite reaction: my yearning locked away in an equivalent box until I could offer it to my next partner, the magic with this one being not even a remote possibility. My reactive thinking even started to block out my soul too. I began to feel nervous that if I didn’t follow everything, ‘they’ would say, ‘Bloody hell, she still can’t dance… and she’s been in Buenos Aires exactly HOW LONG?’  As time passed in England, I regret to say that apart from with a few partners, my soul didn’t even make the effort to reach out. It learned not to bother because it wanted to avoid yet another rejection.

Of course what I cannot know is whe
ther English women sometimes feel to their partners as if they dance trapped inside boxes too… but I will say that I know I did for quite some time. I think I did a rather excellent job of constructing mine and wrapping it in layers of some slightly misplaced dreams of winning the ‘Tango Mundial’ within a year of arriving in Buenos Aires. Lucky for me it was, that the men of Argentina, and particularly Ariel and Carlos, have patiently unwrapped me. I don’t think I’m anywhere near ‘naked’ yet, but one day I think I would like to be. So I’ll keep dancing.

Now I am NOT criticising anything about English dancers, after all I am one. And my tango experiences are not always perfect here either. It was just a different experience in general, and one which resulted in these feelings.  I have no idea how it is possible to be taught or to learn to dance with your soul. All I am saying is that you CAN. And it’s worth it. And some of you do it already, by the way… and you will be the ones who get the queues of women lining up for you. Guys, you can make a woman putty in your arms if you search for her, listen to her, care for her, love her, wait for her, invite her, respect her, dance WITH her, or at least let her know that you have noticed that she is there. You might do nothing fancy with your feet, but she will feel AMAZING and so will you! Oh and it helps if you actually listen to the music, because she might be listening too.

Phew! My soul feels better now! It has let out its ‘Edvard Munch’ scream.

So back to Carlos and me. Well, it is early days to  know how things have changed for us, but I think they may have. We have only been out dancing twice since we got back: La Milonguita (Friday night) and Club Independencia (the next Friday night). Both times, Carlos invited friends of mine to dance, without any nudges, glances or any kind of encouragement at all from me. Both times no-one else invited me. Afterwards he teased me about his ‘girls’. I am just happy to sense that he is more relaxed. I think perhaps what he did see in England was that people dance together for pleasure on the dance floor, but that on the whole we are not spending every last second scheming to get each other into bed, to steal each others partners, to invite each other for ‘coffee’ after one tanda, to race off to a ‘telo’ after the Milonga. Now I’m not saying everyone is doing all of that here either… well not all of the time anyway. The way I see it, at least there is a healthy dose of passion in tango in Buenos Aires and I can appreciate the valuable side of that now. Maybe it comes from the power surges resulting from the exchange of souls. Maybe one day England will be exactly the same if those boxes get torn open!

And as for me, well I am far more laid back now about how many dance partners I have here. After all there is a limit to the number of times I can fully offer my soul in one night, and I want to be able to give, as well as receive. In that respect, I have firmly exchanged quality for quantity. I certainly danced with many men in England, and it is almost as if for now, it has helped me get something right out of my system. And it is definitely true, that after three weeks of dancing without him, I longed for Carlos to arrive and take me into his tango embrace.

On reflection, I think not only English tango, but the entire experience of sharing an extremely colourful journey to England,  has given both Carlos and me a fresh perspective to enlighten our relationship in every respect, and within that our tango relationship is on firmer ground too. And I do believe that as a result, our two tango cultures are at last beginning to find a way to meet, and maybe even tentatively kiss for the first time… just like we were doing in the street outside La Viruta, this time last year.

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welcomelive2008b This weekend was supposed to be quiet and disappointing. I had thought to go to Granada in Spain to a tango festival with some friends, but at the last minute the flights were too expensive and I stayed in England. I have to accept that I am now living in South America on a South American budget and I just can’t blow money. I was sad and imagined sitting at home with the TV. Ah but life has changed, and I have changed, and I seem to attract happy times and action.

Friday night saw me backstage at the Eastleigh Festival of Dance. My Argentine tango teacher in England (who is Argentine) was performing, and his partner was organising the whole thing. My job was to collect each act from their various dressing rooms, keep them silent and get them to the wings in time. As a result, I watched an amazing dance show from behind the scenes, and it brought joy to my heart. Young people danced street, tap, Indian, Irish, contemporary, tango and Lindy Hop. A local radio presenter danced a waltz after only 4 hours of tuition, ‘Strictly Come Dancing’ style, and a girl band who had appeared on ‘The X Factor’ impressed with some fabulous singing. A previous ‘Strictly’ contestant and professional dancer hosted the evening. And I had the pleasure to meet every one of these talented people.

At the dance festival a tango dancing mate of mine was taking pictures of the acts. He suggested Saturday at the Crypt in London. How could I refuse? So, 7pm the next night and I was off to pick up a few friends, and by 9 I was driving through Piccadily Circus alternating between slight panic at the crowds, traffic, and my lack of street knowledge to delight at taking in the bright lights of London: The Ritz, Soho, Theatreland, Eros… My adrenalin was pumping. I was to dance tango in London for the first time in a year. And I did dance. I liked the Crypt. How could a tango venue under a church not be appealing? It even had tables. I like tables. I’m not that keen on sitting around the walls on a single row of chairs, unless the men are sitting opposite. It’s unsociable, involves people walking all over the dance floor, and you cannot engage the eyes of people you want to dance with if they are sitting down the other end of your row. And I was lucky on Saturday. I was invited by some lovely partners: some I knew, and some were new (Italian, Swiss, and English). No Argentines, but there will be plenty of them soon after all. I enjoyed myself. The best part though came after the tango. Shevki took us to Brick Lane for salt beef baigels at Baigel Bake. Now this was my kind of place: middle of the night, bright lights, streets packed with people, delicious food, hot strong coffee to keep me awake for the drive home, and laughter shared with friends. I loved the fact that we were doing something under the cover of darkness. Not all of England closes by 1am. I felt I could have ’sort of’ been in Buenos Aires. Certainly getting home at 4.30am after dropping everyone off was not completely alien to me. In fact it made me feel at home.

On Sunday afternoon I drank ‘mate’ with my Argentine tango teacher and his friends, told them of my adventures, and heard all their news. I felt loved, and I loved back. By 7pm I was collecting another dancing ‘chico’ and was back on the M3, this time heading for The Bedford in Balham. This is a great Milonga, sadly on only every other week… Carlos will not get to see it on this trip. It reminded me a little of Buenos Aires. The music was great: well, Leo played ‘Café Dominguez’ which is Carlos’ favourite tango, and so he won my heart. I was also able to dance the Chacarera which I adore. I was delighted to meet a lovely girl who I had met online through this blog. She said I looked completely different to my photos. I think I probably looked exhausted!  I was certainly too tired to dance my best tango and my body let me know it. However I did conduct a bit of a tango experiment and I was very happy with the results. I danced quite a bit with a friend of mine. He is an English dancer and I enjoy his tango. It’s always fun, but I have struggled to feel a real connection, since I’ve been back and know what a connection feels like. I told him that I was going to adjust my embrace and see what happened. I’m not sure what I did, but I sort of snuggled into him and focused on not allowing him open me out too much and the result was amazing. Suddenly it no longer mattered what he was doing with his legs. It felt like a fire burned in my chest, nothing hot or sensual I assure you, more warm and cosy… ah that duvet feeling I get with my Argentine gentlemen on a Thursday afternoon. I stepped back, ‘Can you feel that?’ I said. He did feel it. He told me he had discovered something new. He liked the feeling. ‘Now that is what a woman loves, or this woman anyway.’ I said. We drove home happy.

Tonight I talked to Carlos. Only four more sleeps until I see him, and maybe there won’t be much sleeping that night. I am just praying that the winds that are battering England die down, and the plane can land safely. I cannot bear another minute than I have to without him at my side. Safe journey my love, ‘Hasta el viernes, hasta pronto.’

Get all the links to London Tango Clubs at Takes22Tango

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Picture of tango workshop This weekend I took some world class tango lessons. Jenny Frances and Ricardo Oria were the guest teachers at the Tango UK Tango Tangk and they were AMAZING! Jenny and Ricardo are lovely people, breathtaking dancers and inspiring teachers. They work as a team in the group classes to break down and then rebuild the sequence they are teaching. By the time I was dancing the sequence in full, I completely understood what I was doing. It was like magic! And it was great to have both the male and female perspective explained. Jenny and Ricardo made the classes relaxed and fun. There was alot of laughter as well as hard work. I found myself able to dance beautiful sequences with confidence. I loved every minute except for one…

At about 4.30pm during the second workshop on Saturday I felt an intense pain arrive and remain in the arch of my left foot! Alas I had to sit out accompanied by freeze spray, Ibuprofen rub and bandages for support! I couldn’t dance at all on Saturday night and my spirits plunged.

But then Jenny and Ricardo performed for us. I was mesmerised. I have never seen tango danced live with such intimacy and passion. I wanted the dance to continue forever. As I sat watching, I determined that my foot would recover. I would have my scheduled private lesson with Pastor Jurado on Sunday and I would enjoy the remaining group workshops. The will is a powerful tool. On Sunday, with freeze spray and bandages to hand I was back in action. Jenny suggested I dance in my flat shoes with socks over the top. It worked – no pain!

My lesson with Pastor was a revelation. We worked on three things:

  1. Energy and connection in the chest, tilting forward from the feet. I learned to give more energy through my chest while keeping my stomach taut so that I could feel every lead in the closed embrace. If I ever backed off even a millimetre he whispered ‘Push’ or ‘I’ve lost you’ and I knew it. As long as I gave my energy in to meet his there was NO DOUBT what he was asking me to follow. More magic!
  2. Extension of the leg from the hip but placing the heels DOWN everytime. Much greater stability in every move. I felt rock solid.
  3. Relaxing the right arm but maintaining the position of the hands in the central line of the embrace. I learned to push back slightly into the leader’s hand if he is pushing into my hand to maintain that line but otherwise I must RELAX that arm.

I am fully aware that these are all things that Eduardo has taught me. He is a great teacher. I hope though that hearing it all from someone else has forced the penny to drop. The hardest one for me is the right arm. I tense it all the time. Pastor and Eduardo have made me dance without using it at all and maybe this is something I need to practice until my brain and muscles finally get the message!

As we danced, Pastor let me into many secrets of the Buenos Aires Milongas, the etiquette and unspoken codes that a single girl in the city needs to know. My eyes were certainly opened, so more of those in a future post… The fantastic news is that he is going to be in BA while I am there and we have exchanged details. What a ‘kick ass’ time we could have if we meet up. It might mean I actually get a dance or two with an Argentine…

See pictures of my tango lessons at Tango Tangk 13

Learn more about Jenny Frances and Ricardo Oria

Learn more about the Argentine drink Yerba Mate

Picture of Sallycat and Shaun dancing

As a follow up to an earlier post on this blog, I have more fantastic pictures that Shevki took at the Coco Rio Argentine Tango night. There are even some of me and my dream dance partner of Hampshire dancing a tango for our friends. Enjoy!

See Shev’s photos of the party at Coco Rio

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