tango music

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When I wrote The milongueros I love – The Gift (Part 1) about the men in Buenos Aires I love to embrace and why, I received many enthusiastic comments from around the globe. People sent me their experiences, details of blissful moments on the dance floor, even poetry. And a few people asked me a simple question.

What about the music? they said.

Ah, I thought, as I read through my post. Good point. Had I focused too much on the men, and taken the music for granted?

Back then, despite having danced tango for three and a half years, and three of them in Buenos Aires, I still felt a bit uncomfortable when people asked me about tango music. It wasn’t that I didn’t like the traditional stuff. I did. I’d fallen head over stiletto heels in love with it in 2007 — and I tell that bit of my story, of how I went from pop to scratchy recordings of Pugliese and other marvellous tango-music men, in my book Happy Tango, so, I won’t repeat it here. By the time I wrote Happy T. , I had favourite tango orchestras and could reel off a few of them (D’Angelis, D’Arienzo, D’Agostino, Caló…) with honest passion in my voice.

However, I am a woman who has never won a game of Trivial Pursuit in her life, and slickly trotting out titles and dates on cue in answer to questions such as What Golden Age tangos do you like? seemed unlikely ever to be my destiny. I felt I ought to be able to do it, but I couldn’t. I knew I loved to dance to certain tunes and if they came on in the milonga I’d sit up, energise my most magnetic stare and feel frustrated if I couldn’t find a partner who loved them as much as I did; but, when a dance partner confided the name of a particular favourite, between tangos (as they often do in Buenos Aires), I wouldn’t say I exactly raced home to search for it on iTunes or write it in my notebook. I knew of some tangos by name, ones that maybe Ariel my teacher (whose tango knowledge reaches way beyond Trivial Pursuit), or Carlos, had enthused over. But, I was a person who felt the music rather than needing to register its ‘apellido and DNI number’. Or so I thought.

Then three things happened, and my musical world shifted a little on its familiar axis.

1. In the UK in July 2010, at the invitation of the social-tango-and trad-tango-music-loving organisers of Shrewsbury Tango, I began to research teaching a workshop on ‘deepening the connection in the social tango embrace’. I had to choose the music for the session. I sat at my computer listening and noting and learning… and wanting to know more, because, I realised that if I am to share anything of what I have been taught by ‘the milongueros I love the most’ about soul-to-soul connection in tango, I have to use the music to do it. In fact, I discovered, my choice of music can almost do the job for me — ladies, you try entering the embrace to a haunting introduction such as that of  Jamás Retournarás from  Al compás del corazón (Miguel Caló with vocalist Raúl Berón) without longing to be in the arms of a man who can lead you to melt.

2. On my return to Buenos Aires, a favourite milonguero broke my tango heart by abandoning me for another woman for the tanda we’d regularly danced over a period of many months, and I found I could not rest until I’d tracked the music down by name and played it over and over until it (and he) was out of my system. It may sound extreme, but I had to do this or I knew I would never be able to dance to the music again. I can’t tell you the orchestra concerned, because I think it courteous to protect the identity of the milonguero — his favourite tandas are as familiar to his dance partners past, present and future, as his dance shoes are to his feet. And I owe him courtesy. I’m sad to have lost an adored embrace, for now at least, but I will remain in the man’s debt for my whole tango life, whether  we ever dance together again or not. He placed the tracks that ‘make him tremble’ in my soul’s memory, where I will hold them as gold. My ‘milonguero I loved the most’ scarred me with tango music itself. How could I not want to know its name?

3. To discover whether it’s possible for me to pass on something inspiring and worthwhile on the subject of ‘the gift’ in the tango embrace, I’ve begun a whole new journey — learning to ‘be the boy’ as Ariel (my wonderful teacher) puts it. Last week, by the end of my first lesson, I was able to navigate him around his living room without banging into the walls or the furniture. And, to investigate the boy-part thoroughly, I’m going to have to know my tango music more intimately than ever before. I can’t help wondering if the tracks I will choose to dance when trying to help women to relax and give their gift to the real men of tango, will be the same tracks that I most readily surrender to as a woman. Can’t wait to find out.

These three music-related happenings seem to have started a bit of an avalanche… you know that thing where once you become aware of something, you see it everywhere. A favourite dance partner of mine (from Australia) and I talk in the pause between tangos of how fun (and useful for getting to know the music) it would be if the DJ had an electronic board displaying the name and orchestra of each tango as it’s played. On Thursday at Nuevo Chique the organiser enthused about D’Arienzo as if he were an old friend and tears of joy blurred my eyesight. This Saturday at Los Consagrados I found myself  surrendering to a strong milonguero from La Plata and a tanda of Láurenz and feeling quite desperate to identify the final tango that left me dizzy with release — the rather aptly named (as it turns out, in the light of point 2. above, though its lyrics convey a far deeper level of sadness), Abandono.

Yep, the signs of synchronicity are there. In wanting to know tango music more intimately to help me understand its effect on a soul with a desire to dance,  I think I am definitely on a good path. However, I’m always going to be more heart than head, so don’t be surprised when I tell you I adore Fresedo, you ask me what my favourite track is, and I just can’t quite put my finger on it. It’s not that I don’t care, it’s just that I drank with way too much characteristic passion when I was young.

And as for whether my original post, The milongueros I love – The Gift (Part 1),  spoke too much of men and not enough of music. I don’t think so. In my case it was the embrace of men, and not actually the music, that got me hooked on dancing social tango. If you’d simply sat me solo, on day one, in a room with a CD player, a disc of classic tangos and a disc of Robbie Williams and told me to choose which to dance to first, I’m sure that I’d have picked the Robbie Williams, just because my British soul was well used to its sound and beat. It was men — my dream dancer of Hampshire, Ariel, Carlos, a multitude of milongueros in Buenos Aires — who taught me to love tango music through their dance. That isn’t to say that tango music isn’t the mother and father of all these fabulous-tango-dancer men, because, of course, without its existence there would be no tango embrace and none of the resulting gifts. In that sense the music always comes first. Plus, it is the music that dictates when the men in my current tango life dance, and when they don’t — for example, Carlos will be very unlikely to leave his seat for Di Sarli, whereas when D’Arienzo blasts over the pista he just can’t stop himself. And if both the man and I are jumping to our feet for the same track, I think the chances of bliss in our embrace are upped to the height of a full moon above the earth.

So… music. Music. Tango music! Yes, it matters, and the longer I dance, the more it matters to me. Abso-bloody-lutely. My favourite tango music is one of the wings on which my tango soul flies. The milongueros I described in The milongueros I love – The Gift (Part 1) are the other. To release my tango ‘gift’ with utter abandon and leave the eyes of men shining with the perfect combination of surprise, relief and desire, I need them both.

What about you?

Guys, perhaps you can substitute the word woman for man in some parts of the post above.
Anyone who wants to deepen their knowledge of tango music — the history, the personalities, the sounds, the lyrics, the lot — try the websites
planet-tango.com, todotango.com and milonga.co.uk.
The photograph at the top of the post is of La Glorieta from where tango music fills a Belgrano park on Saturday and Sunday evenings from 7pm.
If you’d like the full story on how to make the most of Buenos Aires tango, why not treat yourself to my book Happy Tango: Sallycat’s Guide to Dancing in Buenos Aires?

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Gabriel ´Chula' ClausiOh my God!” I squealed into my friend’s ear during the rapturous applause between tangos, “This is the most amazing thing I’ve seen since I got here!” On the 8th March, I’ll have been in Buenos Aires two years.

Last night in a Palermo park, we sat on a blanket the colour of an Argentine summer sky and as the light faded over the Planetarium behind us, the stars of the golden era of tango shone. This was a tango music moment that will never be repeated. Yesterday morning I didn’t even know it was happening. Unusually for a Saturday I taught a rescheduled English conversation class. As we walked to the subway afterwards, my student told me about an open air concert at 7.30pm. “It’s the stars of Café de los Maestros,” he said. “What? You are kidding?” I replied. He wasn’t.

In 2006 they did it for an upmarket Teatro Colon crowd who probably paid a packet. Last night they did it for ‘la gente’, us, for free.

Gabriel ‘Chula’ Clausi’s hands (above) are 97 years old, but they can love the bandoneon on his knee into a solo melody exquisite enough to silence a crowd of thousands. And for two hours it was the hands of Maestros that mesmerised me from the big screen. Clausi’s, Leopoldo Fedrico’s, Carlos Lazzari’s (who must have been granted a night off from La Ventana), Ernesto Baffa’s. Some of these men needed assistance to walk from the wings to their seat on the stage. Some of their bodies stooped. Some were unsteady on their feet. Their bandoneons were carried to them by youthful stagehands. Each man waited while a black cloth and then their ‘musical box’ was placed across their thighs. Then hands that have touched time for almost a century, pressed and pulled and created beauty.

I come from a country where far too many jokes are made about shoving your parents into old people’s homes when they hit seventy. Argentina has taught me that age is a barrier to nothing and that we can dance through life with gusto until our final moment. Last night 81 year old actress and singer Virginia Luque, brandishing a glass of champagne for dramatic effect, blasted Canaro’s Destellos with a star quality that any Pop Idol competitor would envy. 91 year old Mariano Mores, flicking his tailcoat behind him, stood at his piano and conducted his orchestra to deliver perfection. One after another these men and women proved with panache that it is never too late, that you are never too old, that every last minute of life is to be lived. In style.

The gasps of recognition and admiration from the crowd as each Maestro was announced, the stillness as we watched a film in memory of those from the original concert who have left us since, the standing ovation as the two hour spectacular event closed: these boys and girls may be in their later years but by God they are loved and appreciated. And in case you are thinking that the crowd was made up solely of old fogies like Me and C. Well you’d be wrong: young lovers snuggled; grandparents, parents and children drank mate together; teenagers tucked into hot dogs. I’m sure there were a few tangueros present, but so were a hell of a lot of people who’ve never danced a tango in their life. This music stands alone.

Yes there were tango dancers on the stage last night. Two young couples performed a tango and a milonga with Carlos and Rosa Perez. They were not announced by name. Last night they were the accompaniment not the stars of the show at all. And rightly so.

I sat on my blue blanket and a big ‘Wow!’ lodged itself into my heart. This week I wrote a post about Carlos Lazzari. I said that I wanted to see him play again. Bingo. There he was on the stage in front of me with the incredible bonus of a whole crowd of his ‘musico’ pals. Two days ago on Twitter I confessed: writing a list of intentions to encourage the universe to deliver – does it work? Oh yes my friends. I think it does. In spades.

So how can you make sure you don’t miss out on fantastic events like this when you are in Buenos Aires? Well it’s easy. You can click on this link to the Ministerio de Cultura list of Buenos Aires Festivals 2009, and from there head to the website of the Festival of your choice. Sometimes you can even get an English version of the agenda. Sorted.

Meanwhile if you want to see more of what I saw last night, check out my Flickr PhotoSet: Night of Los Maestros. If you want to see the stars in action watch this trailer for the 2008 film Café de los Maestros. If you want the inside track on my kind of Buenos Aires events then follow me on Twitter where I am experimenting with a view to Tweeting the lowdown. And folks, that I think is service, the SallycatWay. May we celebrate life together until the last breath.

Enjoy!

Sallycat

PS. With respect to the Love Verb Thing we go from strength to strength, but as yet, not quite strength enough. Keep spreading the word, doing the required deed, and watching our progress. I thank you for supporting Sallycat’s Adventures. You’re the best.

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IMGP5915 On Monday it poured in Buenos Aires. I am so not used to rain anymore. It was always raining in England and maybe it still is, but not here. And so when the heavens cry on Buenos Aires, it is always a bit of a surprise and a bit of a pain.

Thing is, in England I had a car to keep me dry. Here it’s walk to the bus stop and get soaked, cram in with all the other wet coats, strain to see where to get off through the steamed up windows, walk from the bus stop and get even more soaked. On Monday I didn’t want to go out at all. But I had a tango class with Ariel.

I’m loving my tango lessons at the moment. I think I’ve got to a stage (perhaps temporary) where I am relaxing a little in tango and in life, and on the days he stops me frequently with, ‘I feel something strange…’, well I feel it too, and I enjoy the challenge of working to change that ’strange’ feeling to a ‘great’ one. We usually manage to dance a few fabulous tangos at some point during the hour, and our milongas are always a good laugh. I know that I am still learning, and always will be. Rain, even of the torrential variety, will not stop me getting the bus and walking in the direction of Ariel. So I did get soaked on my way to class, but my coat dried out while we danced.

After the class I had the perfect excuse to head home. A vague plan to meet a friend at the La Ideal Monday afternoon Milonga fell through. She was busy. And hell, it was chucking it down. I walked under shop verandas trying to dodge the water pouring in torrents from their edges: sometimes I can time the dodge perfectly, and other times I am hit squarely on the nose, the boot, my glove as if someone was throwing a glass of water at me. Yuk. I thought about how no-one would turn up at the Milonga because of the rain and about how maybe it was not worth the effort to take another bus, then the subway, then walk and get soaked all over again. On any other day I might have gone home, no problem. But on Monday afternoon I could not. On Sunday night I had seen the film, Café de los Maestros.

I loved it. And so did Carlos. It made us both cry: the faces, the characters, the glimpses of their stories and of Buenos Aires. This film filled me with indescribable emotion for the music that I dance to, and with endless gratitude for those who created and played it, and indeed for those who still do.  It also brought into sharp focus for me that I am a tiny insignificant part of tango, but that in being even the tiniest part, I help to carry the story on into the future, and that it matters that I do. If it rains today and so no-one goes to the Milonga, then maybe it will not be there when the sun shines and you are in Buenos Aires and feel like getting out to dance.

So on Monday I stood dripping on a Villa Crespo street after my class, and I remembered the Thursday afternoon Milonga that is no more. I dug into my almost empty ‘monedas’ purse and managed to find the peso for the bus. I thought to myself, ‘For all you maestros who gave me tango, a bit of rain and no mates to hang out with ain’t gonna stop me. I’m on my way!’

I do like La Ideal. I can’t help it. Yeah I know it’s a bit of a tourist haunt and on the expensive side, and there can be a few pain in the ass type guys looking for new faces on the block. But in the afternoons there can be some wonderful gentlemen waiting to give me their souls, and I really like to dance in the afternoon. I allow myself to soak up the echoes of the past from the building, the space, the music and when I am alone there my heart fills up. I can’t explain it really. Maybe it’s that I watched Osvaldo y Coca dance between its columns on my first ever night out in Buenos Aires. Maybe it’s that I’ve met many friends on its balcony and at its tables. Maybe it’s just that I go there ’sola’. Hell, I don’t know why, but it makes me smile.

On Monday I was delighted that two of my Thursday afternoon gentlemen had braved the rain and kindly danced with me straight away. I was surprised at how many people had not let the ghastly weather put them off: maybe they had all seen Café de los Maestros too. Or maybe they didn’t need to: one or two of them, I understand, had danced in it. Later the Milonga organiser invited me to move my seat to sit in the eye line of some of her milonguero friends. It was a joy to dance with every one of them. I chatted with a friendly Brazilian lady visiting on holiday. I sipped a coffee between tandas. I left when my feet could not dance another step.

I walked to the subway and sped towards home and Carlos. It was dark and I was at peace. The rain had stopped.

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Spring has officially arrived in Buenos Aires! Yesterday was 21st September and while the UK was welcoming in the autumn, we were celebrating the day of the spring. To my delight this meant receiving flowers from ‘el porteño’, a celebratory impromptu family get together and a great night out at ‘La Baldosa’ in Flores (a fitting name for a barrio in ‘la primavera’). How lovely it is to have a day that officially greets the arrival of flowers, warmer days and longer nights. The Argentines know how to do life.

It was a perfect tango experience for me because my favourite orchestra, ‘Los Reyes del Tango’ were playing. Why do I love these boys so much? Their four bandoneons conjure a fierce rhythm. Their violinists play melodies that tug at my heart. Their funky style kicks my soul into fresh life. When they strike up I just long to dance. As they played I felt that me and my Argentine became one perfect tango entity: was there anyone else on the dance floor? When eventually, the final notes of the orchestra died and we dragged our bodies back to being separate people, I think I might have staggered slightly. It was as if we were two magnets of incredible force being wrenched apart. He said to me, ‘Sentis la energia?’ and I could not speak. I had no energy left for words.

Perhaps you would like to hear what we heard last night, and see what we saw? I did not take videos myself but I have found these on You Tube. The first is of ‘Los Reyes’ playing their opening number, ‘Loca’, at ‘Mina Milonga’ in Canning a while ago. They are introduced here by Damian Boggio. The second video is of Noelia Hurtado and Pablo Rodriguez dancing at ‘La Baldosa’ on a previous occasion, and as last night, they are dancing to ‘Los Reyes’. So it’s not exactly what I heard and saw last night but it’s pretty damn close.

See ‘Los Reyes del Tango’ perform live in Salon Canning

See Pablo and Noelia dance to Los Reyes at ‘La Baldosa’

Now I for one, am very relieved to know officially that spring has turned up in Argentina. The last two weeks have been a delight of rain, cloud and chilly temperatures. I have a word of warning for any of you thinking of jumping countries to start a new life. Time it so that you repeat the right seasons. I did not. I enjoyed winter in the UK, then autumn and winter here and I will be lucky enough to enjoy the British winter all over again when I head back to my native land to see my family in December. Really, I did get this part of my plans a little wrong. But, today as I sipped a coffee in a sun drenched ‘Las Cañitas’ street, all that seemed a very long way away. Two months of gorgeous weather coming up – pleeeeeeease…

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