***Post updated January 2012 to reflect one or two changes in Buenos Aires.***
At the time it closed its doors in March 2011, there were popular Traditional-style milongas being held almost every night in Plaza Bohemia, Maipú 444 (as well as the more Informal-style La Marshall, the Gay-friendly Milonga, now in El Beso on Fridays and Club Independencia on Wednesdays). Plaza Bohemia was featured in Happy Tango’s 7 Traditional Places to Try First (page 140), and many Buenos Aires tango dancers and visitors, including me, were sad to see it go.
If I were writing a new edition of Happy Tango now, I’d have to replace Plaza Bohemia in 7 Traditional Places to Try First with a suitably significant Buenos Aires tango venue, wouldn’t I? And, I think I’d have to choose the Asociación Nazionale Italiana at Alsina 1465, or ‘La Nacional‘ as it is most regularly known. I already gave you a glimpse of it when I told you that the 6pm Monday milonga, El Maipú (organised by Lucy and Dany) from Plaza Bohemia had moved there: click here for my post with its gorgeous photo of the ceiling inside this historic space. This picture (above) of the outside shows one of my most favourite parts of the building, the entrance. Who can resist walking up the steps underneath that canopy at least once? I confess that I have succumbed to its charms every week that I’ve been in Buenos Aires in 2011 and 2012.
I think that when something fades or dies, it makes space for something else to shine. It seems to me that the loss of Plaza Bohemia has shone a fresh light on La Nacional, and now a whole raft of milongas seem attracted to it. The place is kinda buzzing, which is great news for such a beautiful building, and it seems to be one of the new and most popular old-places in town to dance. If you are heading to Buenos Aires for a tango vacation, you probably shouldn’t miss it.
Some nights (like Mondays) are very popular, and reservations are therefore wise. It’s got a good kitchen, and if you get a bit peckish, I suggest that you try at least one empanada caprese (a yummy little pastry pie stuffed with tomato, cheese and fresh basil). It is a good idea to take a jacket or a wrap because the aircon can be icy, but, at the more traditional milongas (where men, women and couples are seated in separate areas) you will have to muster your magnetic energy and your best cabeceo technique, and look ready and willing to dance, because the place is attended by those serious about their dancing and competition can be a little fierce. Seat location can matter because the room is long and there isn’t much scope for men to walk around, thus you are restricted to inviting/accepting those within your eye range; however, when you enter the salon, you should wait just inside the door for the host to come and seat you. It’s wise to change your shoes and look your best before entering, the restrooms are just outside, as is the desk where you pay and can leave your coat for a couple of pesos. The dance floor is smooth wood, and the acoustics are full and warm so that the music fills the high-ceilinged space and the hearts of the dancers.
Here’s the latest run down on the La Nacional milongas, all held in the salon on the first floor. Which will you try first?
Monday from 6pm: El Maipú (reservations 43008007)
Wednesday from 7pm: Mi Refugio (reservations 15-59631924)
Friday from 11pm: Yira Yira (reservations 15-31725077)
Saturday from 8pm: J.L. (reservations 15-63601984)
La Nacional now has its own website, visit lanacionaltango.com (if you don’t like websites with music, turn your sound off first!).
The venue La Nacional is in Monserrat on Alsina between San José and S. Peña, just one and a half blocks from Plaza Congreso where taxis are plentiful. At night, turn right on leaving the venue, then right again onto S. Peña for the Plaza, and keep your eyes ‘open’ and walk with purpose, just to be on the safe side. If you want to catch a bus back into town (say to Callao y Corrientes to eat pizza) or on to Plaza Italia and Palermo, then the famous 60 heads down S. Peña and the bus stop is almost on the corner with Plaza Congreso; $1.25 pesos will take you anywhere along that bus route that you need to go; a taxi to Palermo will be more like $30+ pesos from here.
Many ‘Happy Tangos’ to all who host milongas and who dance in La Nacional during 2012, thank you from me for doing your part to breathe fresh dancing-life into this atmospheric and historic tango salon. May it live forever, and may it certainly be going strong when I do come to update Happy Tango, so that it can feature in my 20 Places to Try First, for the visitors who want a more Traditional-style milonga experience; for now, it certainly fits the bill.
Many Happy Tangos to you all! Sallycat
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