
***Very sadly, since this post was written, El Pipa passed away. I leave it here in tribute to him and his fabulous Salon Canning store, which is no more.***
Salon Canning is one of the most famous (and most visited by foreigners) tango venues in Buenos Aires. It hosts tango classes by the famous, and milongas by several different organisers, one on every day of the week. In the book Happy Tango, it is featured, on page 127, as one of my 6 Tourist-circuit Places to Try First. Some love Canning, and some find it too hectic or too cavernous and stay away after the first visit. But for sure, if you are coming to Buenos Aires to dance tango, you’ll want to go and see it for yourselves, at least once.
Salon Canning is also, rather marvellously for my purposes, home to one of the most fascinating tango-book-and-memorabilia stores in existence, and I’m delighted to report that it’s now stocking my book Happy Tango: Sallycat’s Guide to Dancing in Buenos Aires.
The store is run by the well-known tango personality, El Pipa (the man with the pipe), and it’s rather intriguingly (and unusually) located in the entrance to the Canning men’s room and has been for the last ten years. Yes, really.
You’ll be pleased to know, though, you don’t actually have to enter the mensroom either to see or buy Happy T., as El Pipa’s stock spills out into the cubby-hole entrance to ‘the Gents’, and overflows, with style and bewitching impact, into the Salon Canning corridor. You’ll pass it on the left as you walk in to buy your tickets for the milonga. Or you can visit the store without having to go to the milonga at all; El Pipa’s shop can be visited by anyone, whether they dance tango or not. Walls overflow with tango souvenirs: trendy tango-shoe bags, tango T shirts, tango postcards, tango CDs, tango DVDs, and copies of possibly every tango book that has ever been written (in English, in Spanish and even, in the case of my friend Margareta Westergård of TangoMar, in Swedish!), including my essential guide book Happy Tango: Sallycat’s Guide to Dancing in Buenos Aires.
When I and my super-effective part-time PA (oh it feels so good to say that) visited El Pipa this week, he made us chuckle by proudly giving us the full guided tour of the men’s baños, from where he operates a retail hub that I think even Mohamed Al Fayad of Harrods fame, might admire. Pharmacy, newsagent, kiosko, bookstore, clothing outlet… all packed into a few square metres, and all immaculately arranged with the love and care of a man with a mission and a passion for the products of tango.
Our inside-the-den photoshoot necessarily had to take seconds rather than minutes, because, obviamente, it’s a challenge to show your sparkling urinals off to dos chicas lindas when you’ve got a constant stream of milongueros passing through to do business on a Wednesday afternoon. Much laughter resulted as men I dance with, in other places on other days of the week, caught me snuggling up to El Pipa in the gents’ loos, but hey, that’s Happy Tango for you — guaranteed good times in Buenos Aires, for those with the heart to want to discover them.
So now, if you haven’t managed to buy the book before you arrive in Buenos Aires, you can get it easily once in town. Head direct to Salon Canning at 1331 Scalabrini Ortiz (corner with Cabrera) during milonga hours on any day of the week except Thursday (when El Pipa’s store is closed), take $100pesos with you, and snap up a signed copy of the marvellous and highly useful (as proven by all these fantastic reviews) Happy T., before it sells out. When shopping, don’t miss the chance to do the full toilet tour (men) or pop your head around the door (ladies) and see El Pipa’s desk and all the items set out for sale on and around it; believe me, this is a Buenos Aires tango-treasure you would be mad to miss.
If you’ve already got your own copy of the book, and you’ve enjoyed it, and you find yourself at El Pipa’s store… do me a favour and tell him he’s stocking the “super-est tango guide book the world has ever seen”. That should help ensure it gets a great position among the tango books on his walls, and thus increase its chances of being noticed by all tangueros who may need it. That’d be fab.
Enjoy your travels in Buenos Aires, and may many ‘Happy Tangos’ be yours!
PS. A word of update to page 143 of Happy Tango. The Informal-category práctica TangoLab is no longer operating in Club Villa Malcolm on Wednesdays; it’s moved further out of town. Please check the TangoLab websites tangolab.wordpress.com or TangoLab’s Facebook page for the current address.

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